Mumbai

Crawford Market, officially known as Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai, is not just a marketplace; it’s a historical landmark and a cultural melting pot nestled in the heart of Mumbai, India. Named after Arthur Crawford, the first Municipal Commissioner of the city, this market encapsulates the vibrant essence of Mumbai, offering a glimpse into the bustling life of its people. With its fascinating blend of history, architecture, and commerce, Crawford Market invites both locals and tourists to dive into an experience that’s uniquely Mumbai.

Architectural Marvel

As you step into Crawford Market, the first thing that strikes you is its remarkable architecture. Designed by British architect William Emerson, who also designed the iconic Victoria Memorial in Kolkata, the market building is a blend of Norman and Flemish architectural styles. The exterior is adorned with a frieze by Lockwood Kipling, father of the famous novelist Rudyard Kipling, depicting Indian farmers in various stages of harvesting crops, which adds a touch of Indian culture to the Victorian Gothic structure.

The market houses a clock tower that stands as a testament to the colonial past of Mumbai, adding to the historical aura of the place. The interior, with its high ceilings supported by wooden beams and the skylights that bathe the market in natural light, creates an atmosphere that’s both airy and welcoming.

A Shopper’s Paradise

Crawford Market is a shopper’s paradise, offering an array of goods that cater to every need and desire. From fresh fruits and vegetables sourced from local farms to exotic imports, the market is a haven for food enthusiasts. The aroma of spices and the colorful displays of fruits and vegetables make for a sensory delight, promising an authentic Indian bazaar experience.

But it’s not just about the food; Crawford Market is also famous for its pet section, where you can find a variety of animals, from dogs and cats to birds and fish. Whether you’re looking to add a new member to your family or just want to browse through, this section of the market offers a unique experience.

The market also boasts a wide range of other goods, including clothing, accessories, household items, and even rare antiques. The narrow lanes lined with stalls and small shops invite you to explore and haggle, offering the thrill of finding hidden treasures at bargain prices.

Cultural Tapestry

Crawford Market is more than just a place for commerce; it’s a cultural tapestry that reflects the diversity of Mumbai. The market is a bustling hub where people from all walks of life come together, creating a microcosm of the city’s melting pot culture. The cacophony of vendors calling out their wares, the chatter of shoppers, and the blend of languages and dialects spoken here add to the lively atmosphere.

Visiting Crawford Market during festivals like Diwali, Eid, or Christmas is a spectacle in itself. The market is beautifully decorated, and the festive spirit is palpable, with special items and delicacies on offer that cater to the celebratory mood.

Sustainable Shopping

In recent years, Crawford Market has taken strides towards sustainability, with initiatives to reduce plastic use and promote eco-friendly practices. Shoppers are encouraged to bring their own bags, and many vendors have switched to biodegradable packaging, reflecting a growing consciousness towards environmental conservation.

A Must-Visit Destination

Crawford Market stands as a testament to Mumbai’s historical, architectural, and cultural richness. It offers a unique shopping experience that blends tradition with the hustle and bustle of modern life. Whether you’re a local or a tourist, a visit to Crawford Market is a must, promising an unforgettable journey through the sights, sounds, and flavors of Mumbai.

As you wander through the lanes of Crawford Market, you’re not just shopping; you’re becoming a part of Mumbai’s living history, engaging with the vibrant community, and experiencing the essence of the city’s spirited life. So, the next time you’re in Mumbai, make sure to carve out time for Crawford Market – it’s more than a market; it’s a celebration of life

Manish Market: Mumbai’s Hidden Gem for Electronics and More

Nestled in the bustling heart of Mumbai, not far from the iconic Crawford Market, lies Manish Market, a lesser-known but equally fascinating shopping destination. Known primarily for its vast array of electronics and accessories, Manish Market offers a unique shopping experience that draws locals and tourists alike, who are in search of good deals and rare finds. This multi-story market complex is a labyrinth of small shops and stalls, each brimming with goods that range from the latest gadgets to traditional items.

Electronics Haven

Manish Market is often hailed as a haven for electronics enthusiasts. It’s a place where you can find everything from mobile phones, cameras, and laptops to electronic components and accessories. The market is especially popular for its selection of imported and refurbished electronics, which are available at prices significantly lower than mainstream retail outlets. Whether you’re a tech aficionado looking for the latest gadget or a hobbyist in search of electronic parts, Manish Market has something for everyone.

One of the key attractions of Manish Market is the ability to bargain. Prices are not set in stone, and with a bit of haggling, shoppers can often snag incredible deals. It’s this thrilling negotiation dance that adds to the allure of shopping here, making every purchase feel like a triumph.

Beyond Electronics

While electronics may be the main draw, Manish Market is more than just gadgets and gizmos. The market also houses a variety of shops selling a wide range of products, including clothing, accessories, cosmetics, and household items. You can find traditional Indian wear alongside imported fashion, offering a blend of styles that cater to diverse tastes.

The market is also known for its assortment of imported toys, making it a popular destination for those looking to surprise the little ones with unique playthings not commonly found in conventional toy stores. From educational toys to the latest in entertainment, the selection is vast and varied.

A Cultural Experience

Shopping at Manish Market is as much about the experience as it is about the purchases. The market’s narrow alleys, crowded with shops and bustling with people, offer a glimpse into the dynamic spirit of Mumbai. It’s a place where the city’s entrepreneurial energy is palpable, with vendors passionately showcasing their goods and shoppers navigating the maze in search of bargains.

The market’s multicultural vibe is reflective of Mumbai’s diverse population. It’s not uncommon to hear a variety of languages and dialects as you wander through the market, each shopkeeper adding their own flavor to the symphony of sounds that fill the air.

Tips for Visiting

For those planning a visit to Manish Market, here are a few tips to make the most of your shopping adventure:

1. Bargain Wisely: Don’t accept the first price offered. Bargaining is expected, and it’s part of the fun of shopping at Manish Market.
2. Check Quality: Given the nature of the goods, especially electronics, it’s important to check the quality and functionality before making a purchase.
3. Be Mindful of Timings: The market tends to be less crowded during weekdays, making it easier to browse and shop at your own pace.
4. Keep Valuables Safe: As with any crowded place, it’s wise to be mindful of your belongings to avoid pickpockets.
5. Explore the Food: Around Manish Market, you’ll find a variety of street food vendors offering delicious local snacks. It’s a great way to recharge after a day of shopping.

Conclusion

Manish Market is a testament to Mumbai’s bustling market culture, offering a blend of modernity with tradition. It’s a place where technology meets history, and where the thrill of the hunt makes shopping an adventure. Whether you’re a tech enthusiast, a bargain hunter, or simply a curious traveler, Manish Market is a destination that promises a memorable experience, encapsulating the vibrant essence of Mumbai’s commercial spirit. So, the next time you’re in the city, dive into the lively lanes of Manish Market and discover the treasures that await

Similarity Between Crawford Market and Manish Market

Crawford Market and Manish Market, both nestled in the heart of Mumbai, are iconic in their own right, offering unique shopping experiences that reflect the city’s diverse and dynamic culture. Despite their distinct primary offerings and historical backgrounds, they share several similarities that make them quintessential parts of Mumbai’s commercial and cultural landscape:

1. Bustling Atmosphere: Both markets are characterized by their vibrant and bustling atmosphere, with narrow lanes filled with a myriad of shops and stalls. The constant hum of activity, from vendors calling out their wares to the chatter of shoppers, creates an energetic environment that is quintessentially Mumbai.
2. Diverse Product Range: While Crawford Market is renowned for its fresh produce, spices, and household items, and Manish Market is famed for electronics and imported goods, both markets offer a wide range of products beyond their primary focus. From clothing and accessories to unique finds, each market caters to a broad spectrum of needs and desires, making them one-stop destinations for various shopping requirements.
3. Cultural Melting Pot: Both markets serve as microcosms of Mumbai’s melting pot culture, bringing together people from all walks of life. The diversity of both the vendors and the clientele adds to the rich cultural tapestry, making each visit a unique experience that goes beyond mere shopping.
4. Bargaining Culture: The art of bargaining is alive and well in both Crawford and Manish Markets. Prices are often not fixed, allowing for negotiation. This aspect of shopping is not just about getting a better deal but is also seen as an integral part of the interaction between buyers and sellers, adding a personal touch to the commercial exchange.
5. Historical Significance: While Crawford Market boasts a rich history dating back to the British colonial era with its striking architecture, Manish Market, though less historical in terms of architecture, has established itself over the years as a crucial part of Mumbai’s electronic and imported goods trade. Both markets have evolved with the city, adapting to changing times while retaining their essence, making them significant landmarks in Mumbai’s historical and commercial landscape.
6. Accessibility and Central Location: Situated in the heart of Mumbai, both markets are easily accessible and serve as central hubs for shopping and trade. Their locations contribute to their popularity, drawing in a diverse crowd of shoppers from across the city and beyond.
7. Sensory Experience: Shopping at Crawford and Manish Markets is as much a sensory experience as it is a commercial one. The sights, sounds, and even the smells of the markets—be it the aroma of spices in Crawford Market or the electronic buzz in Manish Market—create a vibrant atmosphere that engages all the senses.
8. Impact on Local Economy: Both markets significantly contribute to the local economy, supporting small businesses and vendors. They are not just shopping destinations but also important sources of livelihood for many, playing a crucial role in the city’s economic fabric.

In essence, Crawford Market and Manish Market, despite their differences, share a common spirit that embodies the essence of Mumbai’s bustling market culture. They are not just places to shop but are experiences that offer a glimpse into the heart and soul of one of India’s most dynamic cities.

History

The Rich History and Inception of Crawford Market and Manish Market

Mumbai, with its pulsating commerce and vibrant culture, hosts numerous markets, each with its own story. Crawford Market and Manish Market stand out not just for their commercial offerings but also for their historical significance and origins, which are as diverse as the city itself.

Crawford Market: A Colonial Legacy

Crawford Market, now officially known as Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai, traces its origins back to the British colonial era. Inaugurated in 1869, it was named after Arthur Crawford, the first Municipal Commissioner of Bombay. The market was an architectural marvel of its time, designed by British architect William Emerson, who later went on to design the iconic Victoria Memorial in Kolkata.

The building is a blend of Norman and Flemish architectural styles and is adorned with a bas-relief by Lockwood Kipling, father of the famous novelist Rudyard Kipling. This relief showcases Indian farmers in various stages of harvesting crops, beautifully integrating Indian elements into the Victorian Gothic structure.

Crawford Market was the main wholesale market for fruits in Mumbai until 1966 when the wholesale traders were relocated to Navi Mumbai. It has since continued to serve as a retail market, famed for its variety of fruits, vegetables, spices, and more, remaining a significant part of Mumbai’s commercial and cultural fabric.

Manish Market: A Hub for Electronics and Imports

Manish Market, in contrast, does not boast the colonial architecture or the centuries-old history of Crawford Market. It emerged as a popular market in the latter half of the 20th century, primarily as a hub for electronic goods and imported items. The market gained prominence for its wide range of electronics, from mobile phones and accessories to cameras and other gadgets, often available at prices lower than mainstream retail outlets.

The market’s inception is closely tied to Mumbai’s growth as a commercial hub, adapting to the demands of a modernizing city. It became particularly well-known for offering imported goods, refurbished electronics, and unique items that were hard to find elsewhere in the city.

While not historic in the architectural sense, Manish Market has created its own history by becoming a go-to destination for tech enthusiasts and bargain hunters. It reflects the entrepreneurial spirit of Mumbai, evolving with the city’s changing needs and technological advancements.

A Tale of Two Markets

Crawford Market and Manish Market, though different in their origins and primary offerings, are united by their embodiment of Mumbai’s spirit. Crawford Market, with its Victorian Gothic architecture, serves as a reminder of Mumbai’s colonial past, while Manish Market, with its modern-day electronic bazaar, showcases the city’s rapid growth and adaptation to the digital age.

Both markets have witnessed the city’s transformations, from its colonial roots to its current status as a bustling metropolis. They have adapted to the changing times while continuing to serve the diverse needs of Mumbai’s residents and visitors, making them enduring landmarks in the city’s landscape.

In essence, the history and inception of Crawford Market and Manish Market are a reflection of Mumbai itself—a city steeped in history yet constantly evolving, embracing the new while honoring the old. These markets are not just places of commerce; they are living museums, telling the story of a city that has always been a melting pot of cultures, traditions, and innovations.

Slimy floors from accumulated compost of generations, shafts of sunlight filtering through, with Mumbai’s most ubiquitous crows and fattest rats in town with vicious cats chasing them around, Crawford Market is a name that people of Mumbai will seldom forget.

Now renamed Mahatma Jyotirao Phule Market is primarily known for its fresh produce market. A small walk from Crawford Market lies its “cousin” market of electronics named Manish Market. The lanes are narrow and there are carts, haathgaadis, tempos, small trucks and taxis without an inch to spare, with a sincere disregard for traffic signals and an omnipresent redolence of fish.

“The stock includes a sizable proportion of very convincing fakes,” says Myriam Kaye in her The Illustrated Guide to Bombay.

While not known for its grandiosity, Manish Market is well-known for its intricate repairman work and first copy electronics, with some 200 plus shops in the building which stand 4 floors tall. The first two floors are shops while the third floor is a godown and the fourth floor is a Masjid, named Hashmati Jama Masjid, an initiative by Madrasa Ashrafa Trust.

Salman, a 27-year-old, has worked at Manish Market since 2012. He learned the work of repairing electronics from his cousin and moved from Uttar Pradesh to Mumbai some roughly 8 years back. Salman started working with his cousin and now has two shops in the market. He pays 30 thousand in rent for his second shop, roughly 100 sq ft in area. However, the rents tend to range from 80,000 to 1,25,000.

Salman says that if he had the resources, he would’ve liked to study engineering. Being the eldest of his 5 siblings, he was not awarded the luxury to choose what he wants to do with his life. When asked about how he chose this line of work.

He said “Aap log chose karte honge, hume joh bola gaya hai wo karna padta hai” [People like you have the luxury to choose what you want to do, we need to do what is told to us].

“I finished my 12th, and then started working because I am the eldest of all my 5 siblings. My two sisters are in 10th standard, I want to educate them”.

Many men like Salman have learned the skill sets from their families, and now work here, most times out of necessity. With no money, no other options for other lines of work or any “backups”, as Salman says, he was left to take up a job at the Market.

When asked about the easiest part of his job, Salman laughed it off and said that sleeping is perhaps the easiest.

I asked him about what he thinks is the difference between big companies’ technicians and repairmen like him. He said, “Big companies work to replace the item, while we work to repair. We intend to save the piece. Most big companies will compensate a meagre amount and discard the electronics.

People come to us to save the electronic, not to throw it out.”

When shopping at Manish Market, customers are aware that the products they are buying are first copies or second copies of the brands. However, most complaints from customers come for repairing works, known for “cheating” the customers or duping their original parts for copies.

However, most repairers believe that a few bad apples among them ruin the name of the rest. Repairmen have a stigma attached to their work because of this.

Many times repairmen like Salman would buy an electronic from a customer, only to find out that the piece was stolen. The original owner would then either file a case or complain to the police. If a case is filed, repairmen would’ve had to do “court kacheri”. This has led repairmen to grow weary of buying products from unknown or “shady” customers, because of the ill-reputation that follows them around.

During the pandemic, most of the workers went back to their villages. Shops stayed shut for about 2-3 months at the start of the pandemic. With the start of the shops, the business was slow with time constraints adding restraint.

With the new BMC (Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation) guidelines of only one side of shops being opened, many found it difficult to sustain their work.

Crawford Market is one of the first Municipal Markets in Mumbai. It dates back to 1869 and was named after Arthur Crawford, the first municipal commissioner of Bombay. Despite being under BMC, it is now the subject of a bitter dispute between urban conservationists and the municipal corporation, which wants to build three large mall-like buildings in the courtyard.

Many markets like Linking Road of Bandra, Fashion Street of Churchgate, Fruits, vegetables and flower market of Dadar, and Colaba Causeway of Colaba regularly run into struggles with BMC, as these are primarily roadside shopping centres, where vendors sell their goods on pavements.

It is because of the low prices and the atmosphere of bargaining that hawkers in Mumbai offer, that it is famed for its street shopping all over the city.

But, amid the chaos of this daily routine, there is one word all vendors are accustomed to hearing as a warning sign to pause for the day: “Gaadi,” meaning vehicle. It is code for the arrival of the BMC anti-encroachment jeep.

Word travels through the veins of the roads in shouts, echoes and signals from one end to the other. In an almost choreographed manner, the hawkers wind up. Transactions are cut short and shoppers swept aside.

Within minutes, the hawkers disperse into one of the many small lanes and wait for the gaadi to pass.

While the 1985’s Supreme Court’s decision trod a middle ground. It maintained that public streets were meant for the general public, keeping evictions legal. But it also upheld the constitutional right to hawk, as long as it was within municipal norms.

Manish Market has shops outside as well, which frequently run into tussles with BMC and police. All of them have to renew their licenses yearly, failing to do so indicates regular abolition of their shops. Despite being under BMC, Crawford market has faced regular demolition drives (by the BMC), and street shopping stretches like Causeway and Fashion Street whisper that bribery has led them to sustain their shops.

However, Manish Market has never encountered a problem with BMC. Most owners of the shops have had their paperwork cleared out years ago, which has never led a BMC official to set foot in the building for encroachment. A BMC official, when asked about Manish Market, said that all the owners of the shops have meticulous paperwork, and most of the problems within the community are sorted internally without involving the police or BMC.

However, another whispered name that goes around in circles which is to be thanked for the smooth functioning of the market is the Dossa family.

Dossa family

Manish Market building is primarily run by Haroon Dossa, the younger brother of Mustafa Dossa.

In 2003, Mustafa Dossa was arrested and found guilty of holding meetings in India and Dubai conspiring in the 1993 blasts. The TADA (Terrorism and Disruptive Activities (Prevention) Act, 1987) court convicted him for landing arms and ammunition and explosives in Rajgad and financing the landing and making travel arrangements for people who met with Dawood Ibrahim Kaskar.

Born to a family of oil merchants in Agripada, Mustafa was the second among Ahmad Umar’s three sons. Dossa was born into an upper-middle-class family in Bhavnagar, Gujarat to Ahmed Umar Dossa and Amina.

His father worked with his uncles at the oil mill run by his grandfather, Umar, but differences between the siblings led to Ahmed moving out in 1965. In 1974, Ahmed bought a shop in Manish Market for ₹75,000 and made his sons Mustafa, Mohammad and Haroon partners. The Kutchi-Memon Dossa clan controls the wholesale trade at the Crawford market.

Like his elder sibling, Mohammad, and younger, Haroon, Mustafa, too, was a school dropout and joined his family business in the early 1970s. However, as soon as Mohammad joined hands with gold smuggler Haji Mohammad, in the late 1970s, Mustafa followed suit. It is said Mohammad introduced Tiger Memon, (also a key bomb blast accused), into the smuggling syndicate as a driver, to begin with.

Soon after, Mohammad migrated to Dubai to join Dawood Ibrahim. Mustafa, too, fled to the UAE in 1988. Underworld observers said the Dossa family’s fortunes changed after Mohammad and Mustafa flooded the black market with gold and electronic goods smuggled from Dubai.

Some believe that Manish Market was a clothes market some odd 50 years back, named Nustan Pusbak. At the same time, some think that it was always an electronics market named Musafir Khana.

However, The Dossa family purchased a radio theatre near Crawford market and built the first electronic goods market in south Mumbai, Manish Market, in its place. However, soon after, Mohammad sold off his share in the shop and bought another in the same market complex in 1976.

In Dubai, too, the Dossa brothers built one of the biggest gold jewellery showrooms at Gold Souk, called Mignas, which is still the family’s rice bowl, apart from the earnings from the rent paid by shops at Manish Market.

In fact, the top floor of Manish Market was converted into a mosque following Ahmad Umar’s death, at the instance of Mustafa.

Ahmad Umar was a follower of Sufism and the mosque is meant for Barelvi Muslims.

Amit K, a local resident near the market, said that the market is a mystery to most people, even those like him who have lived there since their births.

“The mechanics of their work or how they sustain themselves is rather a taboo thing to talk about,” he says.

The influence of Dossa has historically made the local residents stay out of matters of the market, with rumours flying around of serious repercussions for those who try to mingle within. The only time local residents were offered a glimpse into the market was during the 2012’s Sahara Market and Manish Market’s major fire breakout which gutted 2000 shops. Although there were no casualties, the losses have been estimated at nearly Rs 200 crore.

While the fire brigade claimed that the blaze that gutted the Sara-Sahara shopping complex and Manish Market in 2012 was due to short-circuit, former chairman of Manish Market, Mohammed Ismail Jaan Mohammed, had alleged sabotage.

He claimed that Mustafa Dossa’s aides had started the fire. He also blamed Haroon Dossa, the secretary of Manish Market.

Soon after Mustafa Dossa’s death word spread in 2017, shops in Manish market started downing their shutters. Most shops, shopkeepers said, were owned, aided or financed by the Dossa family. A notice on the building said the market would remain shut for 2 days. Many shopkeepers and owners in the Market claim that the Dossa family has put a roof over their heads and sustained them through tough times all these years.

Many men employ their relatives in the shops and provide employment to them through familial connections. Eventually, these young men get included in the trade businesses as well and run the shops together with the older generations.

While the exact figures of turnover of the market remain a rather taboo thing to talk about, the shops get their export directly from China, now. Local residents claim that huge truck-like containers paint the road after 10 pm every night, with the cost of each truck ranging from 40-50 lakhs. Old local residents say that the Market was the only place where you could find imported pagers and watches. Today, one can find copies of big brand names, quite easily in the market.

For many people, the name means everything. People who cannot buy the original price ranges of a product are willing to buy the copy for the brand recognition that the product brings with itself. With the huge disparity of generationally wealthy and nouveau riche – ‘new money rich’ environment that Mumbai prides itself on, copies of big brand names let people of Mumbai taste the better life.

Throughout all these years, the name and reputation of Market have stayed the same. Back then people weren’t able to purchase imported goods either. Manish Market, like today, made electronics accessible to all without hefty import prices, and customs levied on them

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